Sewing-machine.



L. GODDU. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 20, 1895.

1,1 06,800, Patented Aug. 11, 1914,

5 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

L. GODDU.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIUATIOK FILED MAY 20,1895.

1,106,800. Patented Avg 1.1, 1914.

5 BHBETS-BHEET Z.

L. GODDU.

SEWING MAGHINE.

APPLIUATIOH FILED MAY 20, 1:195,

1,106,800. Patented Aug. 11,1914.

5 SHEETS-SKEET 3.

L. GODDU.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED Mn 20, 1895.

Patented Aug. 11,1914.

5 BHEETB8HEET t.

L. GODDU.

SEWING MAOHINE.

APPLIUATIOR FILED MAY 20. 1595.

Patented Aug. 11, 191i 5 BHBETS-SKBET 5.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LOUIS GODDU, OF WINCHESTER, IJIASSASHUSETTS, ASSIGN'OR, BY MESNE ASSIGN- MENTS, TO GODDU SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

otters on the drawings representing like leather.

parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel sewing machine more especially designed for sewing leather in the production of boots and shoes, with a strong serviceable locked stitch composed of two continuous threads.

The stitch is produced by means of a hooked needle which enters a hole previously made in the leather from preferably the outer face of the outer sole or a channel therein, the needle having deposited in its hooltone strand of a loop-like portion of needle thread already drawn off from the thread su ply by a looper and yet held thereby, t e looper iving up the thread held by it to the needle as the latter draws the loop of needle thread through the The loop of needle thread having been drawn through the leather, :1 threadcatcher enters the said loop' near the end of the needle and engages beyond it a second thread extended from a thread guide,

preferably stationary, to the leather, and having engaged said thread the catcher will preferably be raised a little to enable a portion thereof forming a cast-off to meet the loop of thread held by the needle, and thus cast off the loop of needle thread from the hook of the needle, the needle during this operation being preferably lowered for a short distance, the loop of needle thread being cast off just before or as the threadeatcher then in engagement with the second thread begins to descend in the open loop of needle thread, the thread-catcher descending toward the surface of the leather and being moved outwardly thus drawing' the second thread in the form of a loop through the loop of needle thread, the movemnt of the thread-catcher being autoinati cally regulated to the thickness of the leather. The loop of second thread having Specification of Letters Patent.

\pplication filed May 20, 1695.

Patented Aug. 11, 1914.

Serial No. 549,898.

that having been previously determined by adjustment made by the operator, and, durmg this operation, the loop of needle thread pulling on the loop of second thread doubles and draws the latter into the leather, thereby thoroughly filling the hole made by the needle, and during this operation'the thread-catcher remains in en agement with the loop o f second thread said catcher gradually giving up, and iinally discharging the loop of second thread into the hole in the leather.

One part of my invention consists in a sewing machine containing a work-support, a looper located below the work-support and adapted to engage and measure off the thread to be taken by the needle, a hooked needle located above the work-support and adapted to engage the said measured thread and drawthe same into and above the material to form a loop above the same, and a thread guide located above the material close to one side of the loop of thread, yet held by the said needle, and carrying a second thread, combined with a thread-catcher, and means to move it to cause said threadcatcher to enter the loop held above the material by the needle, engage at the opposite side of the said loop the thread presented by the said thread-guide, and pull it through the loop of needle thread at the upper side of the said material, substantially as will be described.

Other features of the invention' will be hereinafter more fully described and pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1 is a front elevation of a sewing machine embodying my invention, the parts being in position to commence work, the foot being elevated from the work-support as it would be with a piece of leather under it. Fig. 2 is a right-hand side elevation of the machine, the fast and loose pulleys being omitted. Fig. 2, a detail of the tension device for the needle thread. Fig. 3 is a section looking to the right. of the dotted line as, Fig. 1. Fig. 4 shows the needle cnlarged. Fig. 5 is a detail showing part of the mechanism instrumental in stopping the forward or inactive throw of the pull-off device cooperating with the needle thread. Fig. 6 shows several different views of the acting end of the threadcatcher. Figs. 7 to 12 show different positions of the stilchforming parts in the making of a stitch.

Fig. 13 shows the stitch, Fig. 14 shows the feed frame detached. Fig. 15, the awl and needle segments side by side, but'removed from their support;

The frame-work consists essentially of a suitable column A on which is a head A of suitable shape to contain the working parts.

The feed-frame A see Fig. 14, is fastened to a red A fitted to slide in bearings in the head, one end of the rod having cooperating with it a feed-regulating device A, shown in Fi 1, as an adjustable stop, a spring A acting against the other end of the rod to press the rod to the stop and hold the roller or other stud A of the said frame ressed toward the side cam A of the cam ub A fast on the main shaft A of the machine, the stop permitting more or less of the full stroke of the cam to be utilized for the length of the feed as required for the work to be done, parts of the groove in the said hub being wider than the roll. The feed-frame has at its rear end a projection A which enters and slides in a guide-way A made in the head, and the front of the head has projecting cars which carry a stud A, on which are mounted to be oscillated both the awl segment a and the needle segment b, the former carrying the awl a, and the latter the needle 6, shown enlarged in Fig. 4, the needle se ment being mounted on a sleeve a of t e awl segment the needle for a short distance from its hook being of one diameter, as at 1, Fig. 4, and then it is of a larger diameter, as at 2, to further enlarge one part of the hole previously made by the point of the awl, thus making a hole of two diameters, one of which is to receive two thicknesses of needle thread 0, while the larger part of the hole is to receive four thicknesses of second thread t, the shank 3 of the needle being shown as of yet greater diameter.

The awl segment is actuated to enter the material by a seiment lever a, pivoted on a rod a moved y suitable cam groove a, see dotted lines Fi 2, at the inner or left side of the cam hu B, and the needle segment is moved by a segment lever b mount ed on rod a at thcleft of the awl lever, and actuated by the cam groove 1), shown by dotted lines Fig. 3, of the cam hub A on shaft A.

The movement of the awl and needle into and from the work will be hereinafter described, and the lateral or feeding move ment of the awl while in the work is de rived from the feed frame.

The feed-frame carries a threadpresenter, com )osed essentially of a finger c, having a su stantially vertical notch with project ing side edges, shown best in Figs. 8 to 12, fixed to a hollow slide bar 0' see Figs. 2 and 3, mounted, as herein shown, in a guide- Way in the feed-frame, the said bar having a series of teeth at c which are an 'aged by the teeth of a segment lever 0 aving a d forming preferably part of the work- 7 support d*, and located at a short distance from the under side thereof, the presenter being moved at times toward the needle to engage the needle thread at a distance from the-needle thread guide and bend it across the needle, so that the hook of the needle, as the needle rises, will unerringly catch the thread and draw it through the material, a spring 6" adjusted by a screw e in a hub forming part of a segment lever a, pressing the roll 0 against the cam c".

The looper d which pulls the needle thread for a like distance at each rise, takes its thread from a portion of thread previously pulled off from the thread supply and then held ready to be given up to the looper. The looper has at its inner end a suitable hook 4, see Fig. 8, the shank of the looper being connected to an arm d of a lever d having a roller or other stud d entering the cam groove of of the cam hub B.

The presser-foot e which bears on the material on the work-support is of the kind adapted to be raised a uniform distance firom the work whatever its thickness to.

permit the awl to feed the same over the The presser-foot e is atbe engaged by the presser-foot lifting lever e clamped to the rock-shaft e, the rear end of said lever having a series of ratchet teeth 6 which, at some point, is engaged by the lifting pawl 6 carried by a lever 6 provided with a roller or other stud entering a groove a" in the outer or right hand side of the cam. ll, the lever 6 being acted on by the torsional spring a, regulated by a collar e, thus depressing the presser-foot with a spring pressure on the material. The cam f connected to the end of lever e acts as a rest to insure the Withdrawal of the pawl from the ratchet teeth when the said pawl arrives in its backward or starting position;

The thread pull-oil having a roll f over which passes the nee lc thread is made as :1 lrirr pivoted on the rock-shaft e, the hub of the lever having a too 5 which is acted upon hy :1 toe 6 on the hub of the lever 5 used to move the needle segment, said to' a meeting the toe 5 and movin the pull-oil away from the two brake Stu s7, 8, Wheii the needle is being inserted, and at a time when the clamp 9 is acting to hold the needle-thread between it and the stud 8, thus drawing from the usual wax-pot and tension device, not shown, the needle-thread, enough for the next stitch. The thread pulhoii' is moved by spring f toward and between the brake studs to give up the slack thread pulled from the wax-pot, after which the brake 10 acts to hold the thread while the take-up g, to be described, acts the brake 9 being loose when the take-up is acting.

The rear end of the pnll-ofl lever has an arm 12 provided preferably with an adjusting device, shown as a screw 13, which acts on the arm f, see Figs. 3 and 5, of a. rocking lever f, the upper end of which, as shown in Fig. 3, bears on a cam track f attached by a screw f to the rear end of the lever e at one side of the ratchet teeth thereof, the lever being acted upon by a spring f", see Fig. 2, which keeps it on the cam, and the position of the cam f being dependent on the thickness of the material under the presser-foot, and the cam f will consequently stop the lever f and arm i in a position variable with the thickness of the material, and sooner or later stop the forward movement of the pull-off lever between the studs 7 and 8 to accord with the material.

The take-up lever g has at its upper end a roller or other stud g which enters a cam groove g in hub A and the lever carries at its lower end a stud or roll 5 over which the needle-thread passes, and between it and the material the needle-thread is acted upon by a slack thread controller made as a lever having a roller g pivotedconcentric to the roll g, a spring 9* acting to keep the roll on the thread, and as the take-up completes its active or drawing stroke, the rear end of the lever may, by the adjustment of the rcgulater g by the threaded nut g, be made to strike sooner or later the said regulator and be actuated by its cam suri'acc to more or less bend the needle-thread and aid in putting a little extra strain or tension on the thread to bcttcr adapt the takenp to setting the stitch at the right tcnsion on the surface of the lcalhcr.

The thread catcher i, in this present embodiment of my invention has a hook or finger 1' to engage a second thread If supplied close to the rear side of the thcn open loop of ncedle-thrcad by a stationary thread guide I, and a cast-oft bridge 1' having at one sidc of it a space i for thc cntrancc thcrcin oi the hooked uc dlc. and a heel i t prevent the loop of ncmllc-thrczul castoil' the needle from slipping too Far outwardly as the catcher dcsccnds.

Thc machine frame has mounted upon it at 1"" Fig. 3, a lever 1'0, having at one end a sleeve 11, and said lever has a roller or other stud i at one end, which is acted upon by a cam i of the hub Jr, said roll being kept pressed toward said cam by a spring 2', resting at one end on a collar of a rod ff, the upper end of the rod entering a hole in a stand 1'- the upper end of the spring resting against said stand. The sleeve i has connected to it a leg 16 provided with a roller 17. The sleeve 17 receives in it loosely a rock-shaft 2'", having connected to or forming part of it the thread catcher lever 2"", carrying the thread catcher z" to be described. The upper end of the lever i has a roller or other stud 2" which by a spring 6" is kept pressedtoward a cam 1". The opposite end of the rock shaft i has clamped firmly on it an arm 19 having a roll 18. The segment bar 6 has attached to and movable with it two cams m, n, for cheapness of construction made in one piece, the cam m serving to arrest by its surface the roller 17 and the cam n the roller 18. The cam i flturns the lever i to move the thread catcher 7" toward and through the loop of needlet-l-iread held by the hooked needle to enable the catcher to engage the second thread 25, standing between the stops and the stationary thread guide t.

The cam i acts on the roll 2" to lift the sleeve and with it the lEKOI' i", and at the same time the Cam 2 acting on the lever i causes the rising thrvad catcher to enter the open loop of the needle-thread close to the point where it is engaged by the book of the needle, and to pass through said loop fa r enough to engage the second thread 2% con ing' from the stationary thrcad-guide I and going to the work.

The thrczul-catchcr having engaged the second thread the cam i" returns and perniits the spring 27 to depress the sleeve 2' and as the sleeve descends the roll lH meets the cam 12 and stops the outward movement oi. the tlircadcatchcr produced by the spring 2", and the roll 17 niects thc cam on and stops the (leaut of the thrcarhcatcher, the said cams 1i and m occupying dilicrcnt positions during the stitching that depend ing on the thickness of the stock on which the presser foot 0 rests, the said stock varying in Lhicl-cncss.

The cam 27 is of such shape that the loop of second thread having hccn measured or drawn outwardly through the loop of needlc-thrrad, it will positively move said thrcad'catchcr toward the line of stitching and the path of niovcio nt i thc nrrdlc to thus enable the said lhrcad-uiichcr to ni'r up to the loop oi needle thread. at the proper specd and time. the loop held hv it i to be drawn by the nccdle-thrcml into the stock, as will be described. The extent of outward movement of the thrcml-catchcr extension 21 of the lever on meets and the length of the loop of second thread drawn out through the loop of needle-thread As the leather increases in t icknessthe thread-catcher descends less and less measuring the loop of second thread princi' pally by its height from the surface of the work; the hook 5, however, moves slightly to the front to clear the needle and in so much assists in measuring said loop. The hook in its descent should remain high enough to clear the channel-flap and the said hook begins to move further to the front, governed by the cam m and performs, when the work is quite thick, the principal portion of the measuring function.

The brake 10 to act on the needle thread between the pull-0E and the usual Wax-pot or tension device, not shown, but of usual construction as represented in my patent No. 54 34, dated Sept. 3, 1895, is shown as a lever attached to a rock-shaft it having an arm h provided at its up or end with a roller or other stud It whic is acted upon by a peripheral cam h on the cam hub B, and the clamp 9 to act on the needle-thread between the take-up and the needle is shown as a lever fast on a rock-shaft h", the rockshaft having an attached arm It provided at its 11 per end with a roller or other stud it which is acted on by a peripheral car i h on the hub B, the said clamps being so timed as to their operation that one or the other of them always holds the needle-thread, and there is consequently no time at which any but the exact part of the needle-thread to be used can be acted upon and disturbed.

The thread t is acted upon by a tension device 0, shown in Figs. 2 and 2 a a pivoted lever normally held against the said thread by a spring 0 adjustable by a screw or equivalent device a",

The rod m connected in practice with a suitable treadle at the floor, is, when lifted, made to turn the lever m pivoted at d and having at its upper end a toothed block m engaging the teeth of an internally threaded collar m mounted on a hollow projection or sleeve m connected to the frame-work A and having at its outer side numerous steep threads m, the rotation of the collar on the fixed sleeve causing the said collar to be moved on said sleeve longitudinally with relation to the shaft A, causing the end of the collar to bear against a washer m lying against the hub of the loose pulley in cansing the conical face theipof to be pressed firmly against the conical face of the fast pulley m secured on the main shaft to start the machine. When the treadle i released aspring 26 moves the lever m in the opposite direction to stop the machine, and an the lever 23 on the rock-shaft hand l'i' fts the brake 10 from the needle-thread, thus leaving the thread free to enable the shoe to be pulled out from between the foot and work-support.

A roll 100 on an eccentric stud 22 in the front end of extension m, of lever m, by engaging the cam 25 on the fast pulley m is held out, and holding the lever m in such position that when the treadle is released the spring 26 cannot act to disconnect the loose from the fast pulley to stop the machine except at that part of the revolution of tile cam shaft when the clamp 9 is lifted to free the needlethread on the brake-stud 7. The rod m is connected to an arm m loose on the shaft e along-side of an arm m fixed to said shaft, and having its outer and overlapping the arm m. The arm m, by or through the spring e and shaft 6, is held normally against the arm m, but to lift 1.3 pressor-ioot, the operator, by a suitable tread e connected to said rod m will raise it thus moving the shaft and the lever e.

h Viewing Figs. 7 to 32, I will describe the operation of the machine Let it be supposed that the material w has been put in place between the work-support and the foot 6, and thus thelooper d beneath and in rear of work-support d has been moved to pull to the left from thread-guide d, in said sup port, a fixed quantity of thread and holds it distended clear of the awl and needlebarb. Now the awl a goes up through the work from beneath and near the end of its stroke the resser c is slightly raised, and the awl completes its ascent lifting slightly the material from the work-support d to thu ease the feeding movement, the awl 0, moves to the left to feed, the pressenfoot 6 goes down while the awl is up, and at the end of this movement the clamp 10 is raised to unlock the thread on the roll 7 and the awl a goes down and at the same time the needle b goes down, and moved by it, the pull-oif f draws thread from the wax-pot. The thread presenter 0 having at its front end two ribs with a groove then comes forward under support d and engages that half of the loo of thread held distended by thread-arm d, from the thread-guide d, and lays it into the barb of needle I), and the clamp 10 is caused to descend on the needle thread lying on the roll 7, look the thread behind the pull-off, and the clam 9 is opened just before the needle rises. ow as the needle I) rises with the loop of thread, the pull-oil f is released by the rising of the prq ection 6, o that the spring f is free to act and leave its thread slack, and the looper d then moves toward the needle yielding its thread to the needle, but it does not release it, and the take-up 9' also rises and yields its thread to the needle.

The thread-catcher z" goes to the rear between the strands of the needle-loop and into position to engage the second thread and rises a. little to strip the needle-loop from the needle-barb see Fig. ,9, the barb having gone down a little while threadcatchcr I rises. The thread-catcher i then oes down, the needle-loop being held down loosely upon it by the auxiliary take'up g and engages and deflects the second thread, Fig. 10, then extending from the last stitch on theleft up to the fixed thread-guide t" on the right. The thrctnl-catcher i then comes forward measuring and drawing the loop of second thread through the needle-loop, and holding it while it is drawn down hard upon the work, and then oes back to release said loop while it is being drawn down into the W0l(, after which it rises to its initial position. The take-up g is then moved to draw down the needle-loop and with it the loop of second thread to the top of the work, and still descending (the loop of second thread having been released) draws and doubles said loop into the Work and completes the stitch. During the latter part of this movement the looper d, which has remained in the osition, above described, toward the nee le is moved into its initial position in readiness to rengage the standing side of the next needle-loop to be made, releasing the thread as it goes, the take-up g, as it finishes its down stroke, causing the tail 9 of the auxiliary take-up a to strike the adjustable cam 1 thus giv- 1n aquickjerk to the needle-thread thereby ta ing up the slack and firmly setting the stitch, and then the looper (l is moved again, as first described, to pull from the threadguide d the fixed quantity of thread and hold it for the next stitch.

The brakes 9 and 10 referred to are each actuated independently of the other, so that the brake 9 clamps the needle-thread between the pull-off and the take-up when the ull-ofi' is being actuated to pull off thread rom the thread supply, and thereafter, when the take-up is being actiiated to take up the loop of needle-thread, the brake 10 between the pull-off and thread supply is closed to act on the needle thread, one or the other of said brakes always operating to hold the needle-thread fast, so that at no time can the needlethrcad slip and be given up to the needle exceptin exactly the proper and established quantity.

The loop of second thread t may be drawn out more or less according to the length desired for it, and it may be pulled wholly or partially in the hole 23, and the end of the loop of second thread may be left in the channel and be battered over to aid in clinching the thread as the wax hardens, if desired.

Having described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing machine, a work's !ppol'l, a looper located below the work-support and adapted to engage and, measure oil the thread to be taken by the needle, :1 liooll'rwi needle located above the \vnrkmlppori and adapted to engage the said measured thread and draw the same into and above the material to form a loop above the same. and a thread guide located above the material close to one side of the loop of thread yet held by the said needle, said thread guide carrying a second thread, combined with u thrcad-catcher, and means to move it to cause said thread-catcherto enter the loop held above the material by the needle (in gage at the opoosite side of the said lulu the thread presented by the said thread guide, and pull it through the loop of needle thread at the upper side or the said mate rial, substantially as described.

2. In a sewinginachinr, a work-support, a guide for the needlotln'ead, a pull ofi', means to move it to act on said thread be tween the needle-thread-guidc and the thread supply, a looper located below said work-support,meanstomove the same to en- 'age the needle-thread between the said needle thread guide and the \\OIl(,;nt':i11SlAl move said looper to measure 0!? the needle thread for a stitch, a hooked. needle, means to a e taste it to engage the measured thread held by the looper and drawthe said thread up through the material for a stitch, a threadguide located above the material close to said loop of needle-thread and presenting a sec ond thread, and a threadrateller. and TiltlllI-l to move it, whereby said thruadraleller is made to enter said loop of needle thread, and take the second thread from the thread guide also above the material and draw it therefrom through the loop of ncedle thread yet held by the said noodle above the material, and gradually give up said thread to the strain of the loop of needle-thread as then the latter is being taken up, combined with a take-up to act on and take up the 100 of needle-thread, substantially as described.

3. A sewing machine comprehending the following instrumentalities, vizz a Worl-jsupport. a hooked needle to seize a needle thread below the material, and draw it above the material to form a loop therein, a thread-guide located above the material and presenting a second thread. a thread catcher located above the material and adapted to enter the loop of noodle-thread held by said needle and. engage at its oppo site side a second thread presentwl. in, said thread guide, means to regulate the dc toward the material, of the throwing; in engagement with the said second thrt and means to impart to said llliiflfl-(i ftitlitil il l? a variable outward movement, whereby the loop of second thread is varied in length accordin to the thickness of the material,substantia ly as set forth.

4. In a sewin machine, a hooked needle, a pull-ofl' for t e needle-thread, a take-up for said thread, a brake for the needle-thread between the said pull-off and thread-supply,

an independent brake for said needle-thread between said pull-ofi and said take-up, and means to actuate said pull-ofi' and take-up, combined with means to actuate said two brakes inde endently, whereby when the pull-ofi' wor s to pull ofi thread from the thread-supply, one of the said brakes acts on the thread between the pull-ofi and the take-up, the other of the said brakes is removed from the thread, and when the takeup acts to take up the loop of needle thread, the brake located between the pull-ofi' and the thread-su ply acts to hold the thread, while the bra e located between the pull-off and the take-up is opened, one or the other of said brakes always operating to hold the needle-thread, substantially as described.

5. In a machine for stitching with two threads, a needle, means to actuate it to penetrate the material and leave in the material a loop of needle thread, a thread catcher having a prong and a heel, means to present a second thread to lock the loops of needle thread, and means to actuate said thread catcher to cause its prong to pass through the loop of needle-thread and take said second thread from the means presenting it, the heel of said loo catcher acting to keep the loop of needle tliread in position during the movement of the said catcher through the loop to engage said second thread and means for drawing the loop of needle thread into the material, substantially as described.

6. In a machine for stitching with two threads, a hooked needle, a looper to draw and measure the thread to be taken by said needle, means to actuate said needle to draw a loop of thread through the material, a

a second thread, and a thread-catcher, combined with devices to move said threadcatcher and cause it to enter the loop of needle thread, en age said second thread, draw it through t e loop of needle thread, and with devices to limit the outward move ment of said thread-catcher according to the thickness of the material under the presser foot, substantially as described.

7. In a sewing machine, the following instrumentalities, viz :a looper to engage the needle-thread and draw the same from the thread-guide preparatory to the action of the needle, a thread-presenter to put the thread onto the needle, a needle to form a loop of noodle-thread, a threadguide for a second thread, a thread-catcher to enter the loop of needle-thread and engage said sec ond thread, means to re ulate the descent toward the material of t e thread-catcher in engagement with the second thread, and means to impart to said thread-catcher a variable movement according to the thickness of the material while said catcher acts to form the loop in the second thread, substantially as described.

8. In a machine for stitching with two threads, a work-support, a hooked needle located above said work-support, means to operate said needle and cause it to pass through the material on the work-support, engage and draw a loop of needle thread from below said work-support to the surface of the material, a thread guide located above the material and presenting a second thread, a thread catcher, its carrying lever, and means acting on said carrying lever to raise it and cause the thread-catcher to enter the loop of needle-thread, engage the said second thread, and draw it through the loop of needle-thread for a variable distance according to the thickness of the material, and devices to limit the descent of the threadcatcher toward the material according to the thickness thereof, substantially as described.

9. In a sewing machine, a presser-foot, a hooked needle, a pull-ofi', and means to move the pull-ofl' always to a predetermined point when pulling off thread from the thread supply, combined with. a regulating device, and a cam controlled as to its position by the thickness of the material under the presserfoot, the said regulating device by its varying position regulating the return stroke of the pull-off when giving up the thread, thus adapting the pull-ofi' to coiiperate with material of different thickness, substantially as described.

10. In a sewing machine, a hooked needle, and a looper to engage the needlethread and draw and measure the same preparatory to presenting said thread to the needle, com-V bmed with a feeding frame, and a threadguide located above the material to present presenter, and means to move the threadpresenter in the said frame to cooperate with the needle, substantially as described.

11. In a sewing machine, a segmental toothed bar, a curved guide-way in which said bar slides, a presser-foot attached to one end of said bar, a lever toothed at one end to engage the teeth of said bar, and having at its other end ratchet teeth, combined with a pawl, means to move it uniformly, and a rest for one end of said pawl when in its retracted position, said pawl in its operation engaging one or another of said ratchet teeth according to the thickness of the work on which the presser-foot rests, substan tially as described.

12. In a sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz :a presser-foot, a segmental bar to which it is connected, :1 worksupport, a pull-off, and devices to actuate the said segmental bar to lift the presserfoot, said devices having a cam and a regulator acted upon by said cam, and dev1ces to operate said pull-01f, substantially as described, whereby the starting point of the ultolf may be regulated according to the thickness of the material, substantially as described.

In a sewing machine, the following instrumentalities, viz:-a work-support, a hooked needle, a thread presenter, a clamp to clamp the needle thread, and a take-up, combined with a spring actuated slack thread controller composed of a lever having at one end a sheave and pivotally mounted on said take-up lever and acting upon the needle thread between the take-up lever and the needle, substantially as described.

11. In a sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz:a worlcsupport, a hooked needle, a thread presenter and a take-up lever, combined with a slack thread controller composed of a lever having at one end a sheave pivotally mounted upon said lever and acting upon the needle thread between the take-up lever and the needle, and a device to govern the extent of the movement of said slack thread controller for the purposes set forth.

15. In a sewing machine, the following instrumentalities, viz :a presser-foot, a curved frame connected therewith; a work support: a pull-off; and devices to actuate the said curved frame to lift the presserfoot, the said devices having a cam and a regulator acted upon by the said cam and between it and the pull-off to operate substantially as described, whereby the starting point of the pull-off may be regulated according to the thickness of the material, a l ckiug device to hold the thread between the take-up and the thread supply, an independcntlv actuated locking device to hold the thread between the pulloff and thread takeup, and means to actuate .the take-up, to operate, substantially as described.

16. In a wax thread sewing machine, a hooked needle, a thread-measuring device t measure oil the thread to be drawn by the needle in loop form through the stock, a, lircadrntclicr having a hook, a heel and a met-oft bridge to enter the loop of needle d and engage a second thread. and u cons to draw and measure the latter thread in loop form through said loop of needle thread according to variations in thickness of stock being sewed, substantially as described.

17. In a sewing machine, a pullofi, havinzr 312- icction a spring to move the pullup the thread pulled off by it, ed with the needle segment and its on the projection 5 to actuate the pull-off positively, substantially as described.

18. In a sewing machine, a hooked needle, means to actuate 1t, a take-up,means to actuate it, the studs 7 and 8 to support the needle-thread, a pull-off having a roll bearing on said thread between said studs, means to actuate said pull-off, the clamps 10 and 9 connected respectively with rock-shafts h and h, combined with means to move said rock-shafts whereby the shaft it is moved to cause the clamp 9 to hold the needle thread, and the shaft h is moved to cause the clamp 10 to release the said needle-thread when the pull-oft is acting to pull off thread from the thread supply, .means for actuating said rock-shafts, causing the clamp 10 to act on and hold the needle-thread, and the clamp 9 to release said needle-thread when the take-up acts, substantially as described.

19. In a sewing machine, a work-support, a hooked needle to engage a needle-thread below said work-su port and draw it above the material in the f ary thread-guide for a second thread. said thread-guide being located above the material close to where the loop of needle-thread is held by the said needle, combined with a thread-catcher, its carrying lever d, a rock shaft to which said carrying lever is connected, a lever having a sleeve to receive said rock-shaft, a cam to move the latter lever to raise and lower the thread-catcher, and

a second cam to act on said carrying lever to vibrate it and the said thread-catcher, substantially as described.

20. In a sewing machine, the combination with a hooked needle and means for actuating the same to draw a loop of thread through the work,of a thread-catcher located on the same side of the work as the needle, arranged to enter a loop of needle thread, engage a second thread and draw a loop thereof through the loop of needle thread, and means for actuating the thread-catcher to draw loops of second thread varying in length with the thickness of the material, substantially as described.

21. In a sewing machine, the combination with a hooked needle and means for actuating the same to draw a loop of thread through the work, of a thrcad-catcherlocated on the same side of the work as the needle, and means for actuating the thread-catcher to cast off the loop of needle thread from the needle, engage a second thread and draw a loop thereof through the loop of needle thread. substantially as described.

22. In a sewing machine, the combination with a hooked needle and means for actuating the same to draw a loop of thread through the work, and means acting on the needle side of the work to place a loop of second thread through a loop of new in ting lever having a projection 6 to act thread, and means for varying the length orm of a loop, a stationof the loop of second thread according to the thickness of the material, substantially as described.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination with a hooked needle and means for actuatin the same to draw a loop of thread through the work,of athread-catcherlocated on the same side of the work as the needle, means for actuating the thread-catcher to cause it to place a loop of second thread through a loop of the needle thread, a takeup to act on the needle thread and means for actuating the thread-catcher to hold and then release the loop of second thread during the action of the take-up, substantially as described.

424. The combination with stitch forming mechanism of a thread measuring mechanism including thread supports, a movable thread engaging device intermediate said supports and movable across the line of the thread between said sunnorts, means for moving said thread engaging device toward and away from the threat between said supports and across the line of said thread, and an adjustable stop in the ath of movement of said thread engaging evice as it moves away from said thread; substantially as described.

25. The combination with stitch forming mechanism of a thread measuring mecha nism including the combination with a plurality of thread-clamps, of actuating mechanism therefor, means whereby in the operation of said mechanism the thread is at all times enga ed by one or the other of said clamps, and means under the control of the operator tor throwing a clam into open position; substantially as descri ed.

26. In a sewin machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a main takeup, a sprin actuated auxiliary take-up or slack threa controller, and means for positively actuating the auxiliary take-up to Cantu of this patent may be obtained for tire cents each, by addressing the increase the strain put upon the thread by the main take-up; substantially as described.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a main takeup, a take-up lever, an auxiliary take-up mounted upon the take-up lever and means for positively actuating the auxiliary takeup to increase the strain put upon the thread by the main take-up; substantially as described.

28. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a takeup, a pull-oft, two thread clamps engaging the thread respectively between the su ply and the pull-off and between the pull-o and the take-up, means for actuatin said clamps to intermittently clamp and re ease the thread and to cause the thread to be engaged at all times by one or the other of said clamps, and means under the control of the operator for actuating one of said clamps to release the thread while the stitch forming mechanism is at rest.

29. In a sewing machine, the comb nation with stitch forming devices of a take-up, a pull-off, two thread clamps engaging the thread respectively between the su ply and the pull-0 and between the pull-oi? and the take-up, means for actuatin said clamps to intermittently clamp and re ease the thread and to cause the thread to be engaged at all times by one or the other of said clamps, and means under the control of the operator for stopping the machine with one of said clamps in open position and for movin the other clamp to open position; substantiall as described. g

In testimony whereof, I have signed m name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

LOUIS GODDU.

Witnesses:

H. P. FAIRFIELD, A. VAN WAGMEN.

"Commissioner of latents.

I Washington n c.

of the loop' of second thread according to the thickness of the material, substantially as described.

23. Ina sewing machine, the combination with a hooked needle and means for actuating the same to draw a loop of thread through the work, of athread-catcherlocated on the same side of the work as the needle, means for actuating -the thread-catcher to cause it to place a loop of second thread through a loop of the needle'threa'd, a takeup to act on the needle thread and means for actuating the thread-catcher to hold and then. release the loop of second thread during the action of the take-up, substantially as described.

24 The combination with stitch forming mechanism of a thread measuring mechanism including thread supports, a movable thread engaging device intermediate said supports and movable across the line of the thread between said sup orts, means for moving said thread engaging device toward and away from the thread between said supports and across the. line of said thread, and an adjustable stop in the path of movement of said thread engaging device as it moves away from said thread; substantially as described.

25. The combination with stitch forming mechanism of a thread measuring mechanism including the combination with a plurality of thread-c lamps, of actuating mechanism therefor, means whereby in the operation of said mechanism the thread is at all times engaged by one or the other of said clamps, and means under the control of the operator for throwing a clamp into open position; substantially as described.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a main take-' up, a spring actuated auxiliary take-up or slack thread controller, and means for positively actuating the auxiliary take-up to Copies of this patent may be obtained for case in the Patent Ofiice.

[scan] Corrections in Letters Patent No. 1,106,800

increase the strain put upon the thread by the main take-up; substantially as described;

27 In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a main takeup, a take-up lever, an auxiliary take-up with stitch forming devices of a take-up, a

pull-oil", two thread clamps engaging the thread respectively between the su ply and the pull-ofl' and between the pull-o and the take-up, means for actuatin said clamps to intermittently clamp and re ease the thread and to cause the thread to be engaged at all times by one or the other of said clamps, and means under the control of the operator for actuating one of said clamps to release the thread while the stitch forming mechanism is at rest.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch forming devices of a take-up, a pull-ofl', two thread clamps *engaging the thread res ectively betweenthe supply and the pull-oil and between the pull-ofi' and the take-up, means for actuating said clamps to intermittently clamp and release the thread and to cause the thread to be engaged at all times by one or the other of said clamps, and

as described.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

1 LOUIS GODDU.

Witnesses:

H. P. FAIRFIELD, A. VAN WAGMEN.

1 Washington. .1). c, i It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,106,800, granted August 11,

1914, upbn the application of Louis Goddu, of Winchester, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Sewing-Machines, errors appear in the printed specificationrequiring correction as follows: Page 3, line 17', for the reference-letter ff read f; page 4, line 115, for the compound word thread-arm read looper, page 5, line 126, strike out the word second; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the Signed andsealed this 6th day of October, A. ll, 1914.

R. F. WHITEHEAD,

Acting Commissioner of Patents.

five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, 7

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,106,800, granted August 11, 1914, upon the application of Louis Goddu, of Winchester, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Sewing-Machines, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 3, line 17, for the reference-letter f read f; page 4, line 115, for the compound word thread-arm read looper, page 5,

line 126, strike out the word second; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with these corrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Oiiice.

Signed and sealed this 0th day of October, A. D., 1914.

[SEAL] R. F. WHITEHEAD,

Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

